This, being a well known pilgrim’s way, (North Downs Way) although mapped for mainly walkers, I was able to cycle most of the original route itself.

I set off on a Tuesday afternoon, in late August, during one of the driest months (in the UK) on record, firstly arrived at the village of Itchen Abbas. There was a old world feel, with the clear river passing through, semi submerged green grasses on the banks, an odd fishermen wading through looking for a trout or something. I stopped at the church of St John the Baptist, set up my old film camera, in the direction of the long pathway and prominent Victorian grave stones alongside. Then rode over the bridge and through dry fields with sheep sheltering under the trees, to an area of watercress beds on either side of the gravel pathway.

I arrived at the camp site, just adjacent to the Water Cress line train station of Ropley. The night was quiet, with rain arriving by dawn, which continued until approx 9:30 am. I was then able to then ask one of the station volunteers to put my phone on charge, whilst I packed away the wet tent and pannier bags.

Then I cycled few miles on passing through the village of Chawton, famous as once home of Jane Austen. Then to Alton, where I stopped for a coffee break, looking out on the walkers along the street and the man next to me eating a fried breakfast at a slow unpurposeful pace. The way continued through the village of Bentley, with its unusual bent Yew trees in church yard. The rest of the day was less interesting passing over the Hampshire boarder to Farnham in Surrey. The overnight stay was at the village of Puttenham, at the Barn bunkhouse, being welcomed by the Chris and Natalie with tea and a slice of cake. I was able to dry the tent in the wind in the evening there and re-charge any batteries as needed. I enjoyed a few chats and shared about the trip ahead.

The next day I heading to Guildford to visit the cathedral, walking around the interior, lit up by the sun shining through the tall, clear, mostly unstained windows. Although quite vast and open in its area size, it seemed quite warm and informal, which may have been its designer’s intent, being completed in the mid 1960s. Then continuing through the dry Surrey countryside, passing through villages and valleys, some of which were formally for hops, now grape vineyards for the emerging wine industry. After a good 30 – 40 miles, I crossed over the M25 to arrive at the church of St Katherin’s at Merstham. A simple camping bed had been set up at the church hall and the kitchen had an electric kettle and milk in the fridge.

On the Friday morning continued east, rising above the M25 for a few miles and stopping to try some of the local beer (& a breakfast sandwich) named: Gresham Hopper. The rest of the day’s cycle ride was fairly brief, passing through Chevening, over the M25 to Otford in Kent to the camping spot at Otford Manor. It was agreed that I could stay the night in a walled field area, the day before a family camping week was to begin. In the evening there was an orange sunset and background sounds early family arrivals and even an owl or two.

After a breakfast of porridge and locally picked blackberries, I headed back down the hill towards Otford and turned left at the junction. Then soon joined the pathway route, of North Downs Way, with its quite well maintained gravel path and over arching trees and shrubs. There was many black berry bushes along this way and I was able to have a handful with a banana wrapped in a tortilla for lunch. As the day continued, I was passed a few times by two off road motor cyclists and even a small car. They were be driven by young men, obviously in search of an adventure and not seeming bothered by the cycle and walkers only signs. By 3:30pm I arrived at The Friars, Aylesford Priory and sat down for a coffee and bun at their cafe and gift shop. I noticed many people in the park next door of Indian decent. On the following morning, I asked for the location of the Sunday service, and was told the English spoken one is at the chapel next door, within the Priory grounds. The worship was modern in style and was led by three of the monks based at the Priory.

I continued along the North Downs cycling further east, a mile or two north of the M20 for much of the day, ending at a campsite near the village of Westwell. After setting up camp, I went in search of a pub meal and visited the church of St Mary at Westwell. There was a plaque near the entrance with a map and photographs of the some other churches in the Parish (& Calehill) On entering the church, it looked like it need abit of TLC, though it seemed a friendly place with an old stair ladder leading up the tower to a ceiling door. The church dates back to the 13th century and the shingled spire dates back to that time.

The next morning, being the last day, on route to Canterbury, all seemed to go well. The day was dry, with blue skies and plenty of sunshine. I found a farm shop with locally grown fruit and veg, and could buy just enough for the day ahead. Then as I noticed the bike chain clicking, and I checked for mud and dirt in the derailleur area. This seemed fine, when after a few minutes there was a crunch sound and on stopping, noticed the chain had broken apart. I then had to think how would I complete the trip, as there was another 6 miles to the destination. I pushed the bike for a few minutes and decided to try ring for a taxi. This worked out in the end and after an hour or so or at the bike repair shop in Canterbury, caught the train back to Winchester.